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Prairie dogs live in prairies and fields where there is a lot of grassland. They create large holes and burrows to live in from the surface of the land deep into the ground.

The good and the bad of prairie dogs and their burrows

Prairie dog burrowing activity can be very destructive to the land farmers and ranchers own. They compete with livestock for grass and crops, and the large prairie dog holes can be harmful to livestock. Prairie dog holes can cause horses and cattle to break their legs. In addition, prairie dogs can carry plague infected fleas. Domestic animals and humans can then catch the plague from the fleas carried by prairie dogs.

However, their burrows can benefit local ecosystems. Their colonies help sustain over 150 other species, including ferrets, eagles, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, badgers, and more. In addition, prairie dogs help aerate and fertilize the soil, allowing for a greater diversity of plants to grow.

When deciding to remove and control a prairie dog colony its important to evaluate the pros and cons of prairie dogs and how they are affecting your land.

Identification and signs of prairie dogs

Prairie dogs are small, furry, somewhat fat little animals. Adult prairie dogs are 11 to 13 inches tall and have hairy tails that are 3 to 4 inches long. They typically weigh between 2 to 4 pounds. They have sandy, reddish colored fur, a whitish colored belly, large black eyes, short ears, broad, rounded heads, and short legs with claws. Prairie dogs make little chirping sounds that sound like barking dogs.

Prairie dogs dig very complex burrows that include rooms and tunnels. The entrance to a prairie dog burrow looks like a large dome shaped mound with a funnel type opening measuring about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. The entrance hole leads down to a steeply slanted tunnel that is three to fourteen feet deep and four to eight inches in diameter.  The tunnel then levels off for another 20 to 100 feet. The prairie dog tunnels also have side chambers for nesting, storage, and escape from predators or flooding.

Prairie Dog Removal and Control

There are several options available to remove and control prairie dogs. These options include trapping, physical barriers, shooting, rodenticide baits, and fumigants . Not all options are available in all areas.

Trapping

Prairie dogs can be trapped with a baited double-door cage trap. Some of the best baits to use in the trap include carrots, apples, or horse sweet feed mix. Traps are set near, or at, the prairie dog entrance hole. Trapping is labor intensive and time consuming. Generally this option is used when relocation of the prairie dogs is the goal. However, relocation is an issue. Relocation sites are difficult to find and a permit is required before prairie dogs can be relocated.

Physical Barriers to prevent prairie dogs

Physical or vegetative barriers can be placed to prevent prairie dogs from invading or reinvading land. Barriers are expensive and not very effective. Physical barriers include fencing made with wood, vinyl, or masonry. Physical barriers should be at least 3-feet tall, extend into the ground 2-3 feet, and be opaque. Vegetative barriers include shrubs or mid to tall height grasses. Shrub depth should be 10 to 20 foot wide. Grassy barriers should be 200 to 300 foot wide. When using barriers, some removal of prairie dogs that breach the barrier will be needed. Pea gravel or chicken wire can be used to prevent reopening of new burrows by other prairie dogs.

Shooting

Shooting prairie dogs will sometimes manage small populations. It removes individual animals and disrupts reproductive activities. Follow good hunter safety practices and local regulations when using shooting to manage prairie dog colonies.

Rodenticide Baits

Two types of rodenticide (poison) grain baits can be used for prairie dog control in Colorado – anticoagulant baits and zinc phosphide baits.

All poison grain baits for prairie dog control are restricted use pesticides. Many of the restrictions and limitations on use are necessary to prevent death or injury to non-target animals including birds, wildlife, pets, and livestock. These baits can only be used for prairie dogs on rangeland, rangeland and pasture, or rangeland and adjacent non-crop area. Colorado State Extension  

Prairie dogs would rather eat green grass than bait. Poison grain baits are effective only when green grass has become dry and dormant. Generally, baiting in the fall is most successful because prairie dogs eat grass seeds to build fat reserves for the winter.

Fumigants

Three fumigants can be used for prairie dog control in Colorado: Aluminim phosphide, a USDA gas cartridge, and carbon monoxide. Aluminum phosphide products are classified as restricted use pesticides. Gas cartridges and carbon monoxide are classified for general use. Every opening of each prairie dog burrow has to be covered to contain the poison gas for the gas to be effective.

Aluminum phosphide

Aluminum phosphide is highly toxic and can be dangerous to use. It generally comes in pellet form. Aluminum phosphide cannot be used on residential properties, nursing homes, schools, daycare facilities, and hospitals. It also cannot be used in a prairie dog burrow system that is within 100 feet of a building that is, or will be, occupied by humans or domestic animals. Aluminum phosphide can be used  on agricultural areas, orchards, non-crop areas, golf courses, athletic fields, airports, cemeteries, rights-of-way, earthen dams, parks and recreational areas and other non-residential institutional or industrial sites. Pellets or tablets must be applied directly to underground burrow systems. We do not recommend using aluminum phosphide for prairie dog control.

Gas cartridges

Gas cartridges are ignited with a fuse and burn, producing smoke and carbon monoxide. The carbon monoxide kills the prairie dogs. Gas cartridges are used in open fields, non-crop areas, rangelands, reforested areas, lawns and golf courses. It’s important to be careful, the burning cartridges are capable of causing severe burns, and can ignite dry grass, leaves and other combustible material. Do not use near buildings or very dry grassy areas. We do not recommend using gas cartridges.

Carbon monixide

Carbon monoxide utilizing a Rodent Control Machine or device. The carbon monoxide asphyxiates the prairie dogs and is a very effective approach to controlling prairie dogs. This is what we use.

Benefits of treating with Carbon Monoxide include:

• • • • • • • • • • Direct targeting of prairie dogs within the burrow system
                  • No reliance on bait acceptance.
                  • No secondary toxicity concerns for scavengers.
                  • Seldom requires handling of prairie dogs after treatment.
                  • Highly effective.
                  • Designated as a pest control device by the EPA.

Call a professional to control prairie dogs

The best way to remove and control prairie dogs is to call a professional to get rid of them. Professional pest control operators are experts who have the tools and the knowledge to get rid of prairie dogs safely and humanely.

Rocky Mountain Bird and Pest Solutions only uses methods of control approved by the State of Colorado.

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Get rid of pigeons on the roof by removing food and water

Remove all food and water sources and never feed the pigeons! In addition, don’t let your neighbors feed the pigeons. The pigeons can eat at your neighbors and nest on your roof!

Pigeons mainly like to eat seeds and grains such as oats, wheat, corn, cereal, sorghum, rice, beans, barley, millet, peas, and sunflower. They also like to eat food scraps left behind by people, including bread crumbs and popcorn. Birdseed is their favorite because it contains a variety of seeds and grains.

When grains or seeds aren’t available pigeons will eat fruit, greens, and occasionally insects, earthworms, and snails. They especially like apples, grapes, berries, lettuce, spinach, and sprouted seeds.

Pigeons need a constant water source. If water isn’t readily available they will leave to find a more suitable place to live. They can find water in birdbaths, gutters, pools, decorative water fountains, puddles, ponds, streams, and even leaves after a rain storm.

Easy to use deterrents to get rid of pigeons on the roof

Aluminum foil, bird deterrent tape, shiny Mylar balloons, wind propelled shiny spinning objects, and plastic decoy scare owls are scary objects to pigeons. Place scary objects on the roof, under the eves, or on the patio. Pigeons don’t like or feel comfortable with scary objects next to their nesting area. They would rather live in a more peaceful environment. One thing to remember, when installing scary objects, is to move them around on a regular basis. Objects that stay in one position don’t scare pigeons.

Wind chimes may deter pigeons. You can give it a try. Pigeons have sensitive hearing and the noise from wind chimes can actually hurt their ears. Pigeons don’t particularly like to nest where loud noises come and go.

Sticky bird gel can also deter pigeons. Apply the sticky gel to your roof where the pigeons are landing and roosting. The gel will make the area uncomfortable for the pigeons to roost.

Metal bird spikes to get rid of pigeons on the roof

Metal anti bird perching spikes can be effective in the right circumstance. They can work pretty well depending on the location you put them. Install them on rooftop edges, ledges, chimneys, and anywhere you see the pigeons land, roost, or nest. Metal bird spikes are mostly maintenance free and can be a permanent solution to deter pigeons from your roof.

Metal anti-perching spikes are harder to install and are not aesthetically appealing.

Wire screens or mesh to get rid of pigeons on the roof

Exclusion is the best solution to pigeon problems in alcoves, around chimneys, under solar panels, on vents, and many other places on the roof.  Exclusion with wire bird screen and mesh do offer a permanent solution to pigeon nesting problems.

Our affiliate company, Absolute Bird and Pest Control, deals with pigeons nesting underneath solar panels on a daily basis. Solar panels are generally raised 5-12 inches above shingled or tiled roofs, thus creating a void between the panel and the roof. Pigeons can easily go underneath the panel to nest, poop, and make a noticeable and destructive mess. Most, if not all, rooftops that have solar panels need to have pigeons excluded from getting under the solar panels.

Installing wire bird screens or mesh can be difficult and hazardous. It requires being on the roof with tools, a lot of bending over (which is physically demanding), cutting the wire to the proper dimensions, and stapling or screwing on the wire. It is not advised for a home or business owner to install wire screens or mesh because it isn’t safe. You can fall off the roof and get seriously injured or die. To use this method, please hire a professional bird control company.

Bird netting to get rid of pigeons on the roof

If your roof is large and flat, bird netting is an excellent method to use to keep pigeons off your roof. It physically blocks the birds from the roof. If the birds can’t get on the roof, they can’t roost or nest. Bird netting is an exclusion method primarily used for large commercial bird and pigeon control.

A professional bird control operator should install bird netting. If not installed correctly the pigeons can still land on the area and get trapped, as well as other birds. This is cruel. Please hire a professional bird control company for bird netting. It will cost money but it is the safest and most humane way to have bird netting installed.

Remove bird nesting materials and droppings

It is important to remove all pigeon nesting and feces prior to excluding pigeons. Nesting materials and droppings left on the roof will continue to cause damage.

If the roof has a pitch, using a power washer is generally the best way to get rid of pigeon waste. Put a tarp on the ground next to the roof to catch the debris as it is rinsed off the roof. It will be much easier to clean up the pigeon feces on the ground if it is contained on a tarp. Wear a mask to prevent inhaling fumes from pigeon feces and wet the feces down before rinsing off. Histoplasmosis is zoonotic disease that can be found in pigeon feces. Zoonotic diseases are caused by harmful germs like viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi that are spread between animals and people. (CDC 2017)

If the roof is flat, you will have to wet the roof down (to prevent spreading contaminants and disease through the air), then rake and sweep up the pigeon waste prior to rinsing. Again, wear a mask to prevent inhaling fumes from pigeon feces.

Please be careful or better yet, call a professional. Using a power washer on the roof can be slippery and dangerous. Inhaling noxious pigeon feces can cause disease – it is a biohazard.

Importance of discouraging pigeons from nesting on your roof

Pigeons spread disease. There are over 60 diseases birds and their droppings can carry. Some of the diseases from pigeon droppings include salmonella, toxoplasmosis, cryptococcosis, St Louis encephalitis, E.coli, and more. In addition, fungus can grow in pigeon droppings which can cause histoplasmosis. Histoplasmosis is a respiratory disease that may be fatal. Pigeons are also carriers of pests including fleas, mites, ticks, and lice as well as West Nile virus. All of these diseases can pose a serious threat to human health.

Property damage is a big concern with pigeon nesting and droppings. Nests can clog gutters, ventilation pipes, chimneys, and damage electrical equipment. Damaged electrical wires from pigeon nests can even lead to fires. Pigeon droppings are very acidic. The droppings can actually eat away at the roof structure and cause roof leakage.

Pigeon droppings are unsightly. Nobody likes to see or walk on pigeon droppings.

People can slip and fall where pigeon droppings accumulate. When pigeon feces are fresh or rained on it is slippery.

Call a professional

Installing wire bird spikes, wire screens, wire mesh, or bird netting is difficult and hazardous. People can, and do, fall off roofs. People who fall off roofs get seriously injured and even die. It is best to call a professional bird control company when using these methods. Companies that specialize in removing and excluding bird pests (like pigeons) have the know how and safety equipment to get rid of pigeons in a safe and efficient manner from rooftops, alcoves, solar panels, chimneys, window sills, and other areas.

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Some of these pests – to name a few – are mosquitoes, gnats, biting flies, ants, moths, dust mites, rodents, birds, and even raccoons.

Peppermint essential oil to control pests

Many pests don’t like the smell of mint, especially peppermint. Peppermint oil smells great to humans and is a good alternative to commercial pesticide. It is a natural insecticide that repels mosquitoes, flies, ants, beetles, and more. In addition, it deters raccoons, woodpeckers, and mice. Birds don’t have strong lungs and therefor don’t like strong scents such as peppermint oil.

An easy way to help repel and deter insects, rodents, birds, and wildlife is to create a peppermint oil spray.

Peppermint Oil Spray

Mix several drops of peppermint essential oil and water in a small spray bottle. Shake well. The oil will tend to separate from the water. Always shake before applying. Spray the mixture wherever you’re having the pest problem.

If this isn’t working, increase the amount of peppermint oil in the water up to a 50/50 ratio. For example mix 2 Tablespoons peppermint oil with 2 Tablespoons water. Shake well and spray.

Peppermint Oil Cotton Balls

Apply at least 5 drops of peppermint oil on a cotton ball. The stronger the scent the better. Place it in various spots around your home or business where pests are entering. This can help repel insects and rodents. It is important for the pests to smell the peppermint before they enter the building. Refresh the peppermint oil cotton balls at least once a month.

The peppermint cotton ball will mask the pheromone trail of rodents. The pheromone trail is what attracts other rodents. It shows them the pathways into your home or business.

Concentrated Peppermint Oil

For woodpeckers, try dabbing concentrated peppermint oil where you see the woodpeckers pecking. They are going after the insects living on your house or business. You will end up repelling the woodpecker and the insects.

Interesting research on Peppermint oil

In March of 2011, the Malaria Journal published a study that discovered peppermint oil offered mosquito repellent action when applied to exposed areas of the body. In addition, the study demonstrated larvicidal properties. Mosquito larvae where killed after exposure to pure peppermint oil and water for 24 hours.

PubMed, an online scientific journal, published an article discussing the effectiveness of menthol against mosquitoes in particular. The study demonstrated that menthol used as a natural alternative to synthetic chemicals like DEET can be effective for human protection against mosquitoes.

Citronella essential oil to control pests

Citronella repels mosquitoes, flies, fleas, ticks, and a lot of other pests. It is a non-toxic biopesticide (biochemical). It is registered with the EPA as an insect repellent/feeding depressant and as an animal repellent.

Citronella oil is safe and very popular. It can be applied to your skin, burned in a candle, or sprayed in the air. If applying to skin, mix several drops of citronella in olive oil or sunflower oil. A little goes a long way. If you can smell it, so can the bugs.

Citronella oil is on the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s list of minimum risk pesticides. However, citronella oil should not be used on children less than six months old unless directed by a physician. This information is listed on the product label.

Tea tree essential oil to control pests

Tea tree oil is another potent scent to help repel pests. It smells good, very similar to pine, and works well to ward off ants, mosquitoes, and ticks.

Soaking a rag in a tea tree oil and water mixture is the best way to use it. Put the soaked rag up high so that children or pets can’t reach it. Do not apply to your skin or ingest. Too much tea tree oil, which contains terpenes, whether ingested or absorbed through the skin is toxic. Do not use tea tree oil around pets such as cats or dogs. Pets tend to lick the oil and can become very sick. There is no antidote for tea tree oil poisoning.

When absorbed, tea tree oil may cause drowsiness, confusion, hallucinations, coma, unsteadiness, weakness, vomiting, diarrhea, nausea, blood cell abnormalities, and severe rashes.

Lemon Eucalyptus essential oil to control pests

Lemon Eucalyptus oil repels mites, fleas, and mosquitoes. In particular, lemon eucalyptus has provided some reliable results when it comes to preventing mosquitoes from biting, regardless of application style. Therefor it is considered one of the most effective natural mosquito repellant options available.

Homemade Lemon Eucalyptus Spray

2 tablespoons of either vodka or witch hazel
2 tablespoons grape seed oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, or olive oil
50 drops of essential eucalyptus oil

Mix the ingredients into a solution. Put into spray bottle and shake. Spray on skin.

Basil essential oil to control pests

Basil repels stinging insects, stink bugs, house flies, dust mites, and mosquitoes. It can be used as an insect repellent spray and, because it works on dust mites, it can be sprayed on bedding and pillows.

Homemade Basil Spray

1/2 cup distilled water
2 tablespoons vodka or witch hazel
20 to 30 drops basil essential oil

Mix the ingredients into a solution. Put into a spray bottle and shake. Spray on skin or linens. Store in refrigerator to keep fresh. Be sure to keep spray away from eyes, nose, and mouth.

More natural scents used to control pests in home or business

For pests that are entering your home or business, Busy Bee Cleaning Service advocates using essential oils as well as garlic, pepper, cucumber, hot sauce, and lemon peels. Pests do not like strong smells and therefor tend to stay away from them. Keep strong scents around your home or business, such as in the cabinets, pantry, and bathrooms.

Integrated Pest Management

Essential oils and other strong scents can be part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. Pests are persistent and will take advantage of almost any situation involving food, water, and shelter. It is very important to keep food cleaned up and out of their paths. If they don’t have something to eat, they won’t stay.

Another important aspect of pest management involves exclusion. If pests can’t take up house in or around your home or business they won’t stay. Always seal cracks, crevices, holes, and gaps that would let pests in. Exclusion provides a long-term, very effective method for keeping pests out and it is “safe” – no pesticide is used.

Integrated Pest Management is a long-term, effective, and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management. The Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program utilizes current and comprehensive information on the life cycle of pests and their interaction with the environment. This information, in combination with pest control methods, is used to manage pests by the most cost-effective means, and with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment. EPA

Call a professional

If homemade and DIY methods aren’t working or if the infestation is moderate to severe, it is best to call a professional pest control company. If the infestation is severe, essential oils and other scents probably will not be effective. Pests are very persistent and resilient . They are hard to deter, repel, and kill. Consider using DYI pest control for mild infestations or to prevent insects, rodents, and other pests from coming into your home before an infestation occurs.

The post NATURAL PEST CONTROL USING ESSENTIAL OIL appeared first on Rocky Mountain BPS.

The first step in getting rid of ants is to get rid of their food and water. Cleanup and remove all food on counter tops, food crumbs or spills in cupboards, food on the floor, food in pet dishes, and food in trash cans. In addition to cleaning up, seal off all food in airtight containers. Plastic containers or plastic baggies work great for sealing off food from ants. Food, food crumbs, and food spills located anywhere in your home or business will generally attract ants. They especially like sweets. They like to eat. In addition, make sure there is no standing water, dripping water faucets, or leaking pipes. Ants go where they can find food and water. Ants cannot survive or will move somewhere else without food or water.

Clean up worker ant scent trails

Once food and water sources are removed, wipe down all areas where the ants have traveled with a household cleaner. The cleaner will get rid of the scent trails created by worker ants. The ants use these scent trails to find their food and water. We have found a paste of baking soda and water can be a great cleaner to help remove the scent trails. In addition, dry baking soda can be sprinkled along cracks and crevices to get rid of the scent. Another homemade cleaner that works well to remove the scent is a mixture of vinegar and water. Combine 50 percent vinegar and 50 percent water to form the solution. Spray it on and let it air dry.

Watch and wait once the cleaner is applied. Look for entry points.

Warning* Don’t use vinegar on natural stone counter tops, instead use a regular cleaner safe for Stone Countertops.

Remove debris on the outside of home or business

Most ants live and nest outdoors in large colonies under the ground. Some live next to foundations of buildings. And some live in the walls of your home or business. To discourage ants form living adjacent to your home or business, or in your walls, it is necessary to keep the outside of your property tidy. Cleanup and remove all debris, leaves, and mulch next to home or business. Cut back shrubs and trees – anything touching the building. This will eliminate cover for the ants. Also make sure there is no standing water around the perimeter of the building.

Seal cracks and crevices

Seal all cracks and crevices where ants can enter your home or business. Caulking works well. If cracks or crevices are found in cement then use mortar. Other commonly used sealing materials include putty, glue, or plaster. Some entrance points are easy to locate and some are well hidden. Some are so small they are nearly invisible to the human eye. Examine your home or business with a critical eye. Be thorough. Sealing your home or business off from ants takes time and diligence.

Commonly, ants will enter next to window frames, door frames, crawl spaces, garages, and through cracks in foundations. Pretty much anywhere there is a small opening.

Insecticides

Insecticides can be used to get rid of ants. There are many insecticides available. They come in the form of sprays, dusts, granules, and baits. The insecticides can be used in the yard, around the building’s perimeter, as spot spraying, or as a bait. If using insecticides please read and follow instructions carefully as insecticides are poisonous.
Spot spraying ants with insecticide will instantly kill them but offers only temporary relief. There are hundreds or even thousands more ants still hanging out in their colony. More ants will enter your home or business in a relatively short amount of time.

One of the most effective methods of using insecticides is spraying or dusting the outside parameter of the building on a regular basis. If consistent, this maintains an insecticide barrier that can inhibit ants from entering the home or business. The only problem with this method is it will not inhibit ants from entering from below the building. If there is an opening in the foundation, such as a crack or crevice, ants can still enter through the opening.

Another effective method is by using baits. Not all ants like the same foods so this can be a trial and error method. The ants will feed on the bait and take it back to their colonies. Baits are slow acting which gives the worker ant time to carry the bait back to the main colony. Baits need to be placed in areas where pets and children can’t reach them. Make sure when using the baiting method you have eliminated all other food and water sources.

Homemade ant bait

You can try a Borax based homemade ant bait. Again, please make sure this is not within reach of children and pets. It is poisonous.

Borax Ant Bait

1/2 Cup Sugar
1 1/2 Tablespoons Borax
1 1/2 Cup Warm Water
Some Cotton Balls

Mix the sugar, Borax, and warm water until well dissolved. Soak the cotton balls in the mixture. Put the Borax soaked cotton balls near where the ants travel.

Ants like sweets. The sugar in the homemade ant bait attracts the ants. The ants will then take the Borax soaked cotton back to their colony. When ants eat the borax bait, it disrupts their digestive system and slowly kills them. This slow kill time allows the ants to eat some of the bait and then head back to the colony to share with the rest of the ants and queen. This method takes a while to work.

Ant deterrents

Once the ant infestation is gone deterrents can be used. Some natural scents ants don’t like include:

Peppermint oil
Cinnamon
Cloves
Mint extract
Pepper
Salt
Paste made of citrus rind or peel (lemons, oranges, grapefruit)
Cucumbers sliced
Bay leaves
Baby powder
Diatomaceous earth

Give one or more of these scents a try. Put the scent next to where ants have entered your home or business.

Squish the worker ants

Worker ants, also known as scouts, are sent out by the colony to look for food and water. If you see a lone ant trolling around, squish it. Don’t let it live to go back and tell the rest of the ants it found food or water. The other ants will follow the scouts scent trail and soon an army of ants will be invading your home or place of business. Squish it, and do it fast. Remember it only takes one ant roaming around to start an ant infestation.

Ants can be hard to control

Once ants have established a colony they are hard to control and tuff to get rid of. Calling a professional is generally advised. Professionals have the knowledge, tools, and expertise to handle an ant infestation safely and effectively. A Pest Management Professional will conduct a thorough inspection and create a science based ant management plan. The plan will be tailored for your unique situation. Ant management plans include ant identification, recommendations for cleanup, sanitation, exclusion, as well as some insecticide use. All of it is important to use. It takes a comprehensive pest management plan to get rid of ants.

If you feel you need a professional pest management company to get rid of your ants, and to create a comprehensive plan to keep the ants away, please give Rocky Mountain Bird and Pest Solutions a call. We can help you get rid of ants and keep them from coming back.

The post HOW TO GET RID OF ANTS appeared first on Rocky Mountain BPS.

Bed bugs (Cimex lectularius) are small, oval, flattened, brownish insects that feed on the blood of animals or humans. Adult bed bugs are about 3/16” long or about the size of an apple seed. They usually feed at night, and after feeding their bodies swell and turn a reddish color.

What is a bed bugs life cycle?

Adult female bed bugs lay their eggs in secluded places, depositing 1, 2, or more eggs per day. The eggs are sticky (so they can adhere to surfaces), tiny (about the size of a spec of dust), whitish, and very hard to see without magnification. At room temperature, bed bugs will hatch in about a week. Newly hatched bed bugs are straw colored and about the size of a pinhead. Baby bed bugs, called Nymphs, have five life stages. At the end of each life stage, they shed their skins. A blood meal is needed between each successive shedding of skin. Under favorable conditions (70-80°F), the bed bugs can reach maturity in as little as a month. Under these conditions several generations can be produced per year. Adult females must also feed in order to lay her eggs. Bed bugs are resilient, and may survive in cooler temperatures up to a year without feeding which is unusual for most insects.

When and how do bed bugs feed?

Bed bugs are mainly active at night. They live in groups and typically will hide in mattresses, box springs, bed frames, and headboards during the day. This gives them easy access to people so they can feed at night while people are sleeping. To feed, the bed bug will pierce the skin and withdraw blood through an elongated beak. The bugs will feed from 3 to 10 minutes. Bed bugs do not stay attached to a person like a tick. Instead, after feeding, they become engorged and crawl away to digest their meal. Reactions to bedbug bites vary. Most bed bug bites are painless at first but later the bite site will become itchy and produce welts. Some people will get a reaction within a day, others won’t get a reaction for several days to weeks, and some people won’t get a reaction at all. This can make it difficult to know when and where the bite occurred.

How does infestation of bed bugs occur?

Bed bug infestation is generally not caused by lack of hygiene. These little insects usually are brought into dwellings on a person’s clothing or luggage, backpacks, furniture, pets, and wild animals such as bats or birds. The likelihood of bed bugs increases if the affected individual has been traveling, or if they have acquired used beds or furnishings before symptoms started to appear. Bed bugs are great hitchhikers. They will crawl into a persons’ luggage or backpack at a hotel. Or if a person is visiting a dwelling that has bed bugs, the bed bugs can crawl into purses, on clothing, or even wheelchairs. Once bed bugs are introduced they can crawl from room to room or floor to floor. Unlike fleas and cockroaches, bed bugs don’t need a dirty or messy place to live –  they feed on blood. So a place can be extremely clean and pristine, and still have bed bugs.

What are the signs of bed bug infestation?

Waking up with itchy welts you didn’t have when you went to sleep is definitely a sign. It’s important to recognize, however, that not all bite-like reactions are due to bed bugs. Sometimes they are due to mosquitoes, fleas, or carpet beetles. Sometimes the reaction can even look like a rash or hives. And sometimes there is no reaction at all.

• • • A more accurate way of identifying a bed bug infestation is to look for physical signs of bed bugs. These include:
    • Rusty or reddish stains on linens or mattresses caused by crushed bed bugs.
    • Small dark spots on fabric caused by bed bug fecal matter.
    • Tiny straw colored eggs
    • Straw colored eggshells that are left behind from shedding Nymphs.
    • Live bed bugs.

Confirmation of bed bug infestation often requires the help of a professional, especially in the early stages. A low-level infestation is more challenging to find and correctly identify. If you misidentify a bug infestation, it gives the bugs more time to spread to other areas of the house or hitchhike a ride to someone else’s house. It is far easier and less costly to treat a minor bed bug infestation than to treat the same infestation after it becomes more widespread.

Where do bed bugs hide?

Bed bugs generally start out hiding on and around the mattress, box springs, headboard, footboard, and bed linens where they can readily feed on a human. Bed bugs tend to live within 8 feet of where humans sleep, however they also have been known to travel over 100 feet in a night. If a room is heavily infested, they can hide in any crack or crevice the width of a credit card.

Places bed bugs hide:

• • • On and around your bed – mattress, box springs, headboard, footboard, bed linens.
    • In drawer joints.
    • In electrical outlets and appliances.
    • Under loose wall paper, wall hangings, and pictures.
    • At the junction where the wall and ceiling meet.
    • Behind baseboards.
    • In furniture crevices and upholstery.
    • Inside backpacks and suitcases.
    • Inside boxes and shoes.
    • In cars, buses, and trains.
    • Any small crack or crevice near a human.

How to prevent bed bugs from infesting your home.

When traveling and staying at a hotel, keep your luggage away from the bed, furniture, and walls. Use your luggage rack to hold your suitcase and backpack. Keep your luggage closed and zipped up. Consider keeping luggage and bags in the bathroom with the light on (bed bugs will most likely be hiding in dark places within the bedroom closer to a potential host). Think about bringing a large plastic trash bag to keep your suitcase in. Consider using a natural insecticide like neem oil by gently misting the bed and its surroundings with the neem oil spray. Bed bugs will mistakenly ingest it and die. Neem oil is a safe and environmentally friendly way to keep bed bugs at bay.

When leaving a hotel room, visually check your luggage, purse, etc for bed bugs. Inspect the seams and crevices as well as your clothes inside.

After traveling on a plane, do the same inspection of your luggage as when leaving a hotel room. It is possible bed bugs have relocated from person’s baggage on the plane and are now resting comfortably on yours.

When arriving home think about vacuuming your suitcases in the garage or outside. For additional assurance place your clothes, clean and dirty, in the dryer on a high setting (at least 120° Fahrenheit) for at least 15 minutes. This should successfully kill any bed bugs and their eggs.

Never bring second-hand furniture, especially mattresses and box springs, into a home without thoroughly examining for signs of a bed bug infestation. You might consider having a pest control professional inspect the furniture as it is difficult to detect an infestation if you are untrained.

The best way to prevent a bed bug infestation is to do regular inspections for signs of bed bugs.

Do bed bugs spread disease?

Bed bugs are not known to spread disease. However, they can be an annoyance because their bites may cause itching and local allergic reactions. Sometimes if a person scratches the bite it can cause a secondary skin infection.

What to do when there is a bedbug infestation?

Bed bug bites usually do not pose a serious medical threat. The best way to treat a bite is to avoid scratching the area and apply antiseptic creams or lotions and take an antihistamine.

Bed bug infestations are commonly treated by insecticide spraying. If you suspect that you have an infestation, contact a professional pest control company.

The post ARE YOU INFESTED WITH BED BUGS? MAYBE? YES?…HOW TO KNOW AND WHAT TO DO! appeared first on Rocky Mountain BPS.

According to the National Pest Management Association (NPMA), 24% of homeowners report mice infestations specifically in the winter.

To keep these unwanted, disease causing, destructive rodents out of your home, it is important to seal up holes and gaps both inside and outside of your home.

Mice can get through a hole the size of a nickel, and rats can make it through a hole the size of a half dollar.

Look for holes or gaps inside your home – in and around everywhere:

• • • kitchen cabinets
    • stoves and refrigerators
    • closets and doors
    • all pipes going to sinks, washing machines, water heaters, and furnaces
    • floor vents and dryer vents
    • attics, basements, and crawl spaces
    • floor drains
    • between the floor and wall juncture

Look for holes or gaps outside your home – in and around everywhere:

• • • the roof, rafters, gables, and eaves
    • windows and doors
    • foundation, attic vents, and crawl space vents
    • holes for electrical, plumbing, cable, and gas lines

You can fill small holes with steel wool and then put caulk around the steel wool to keep it in place. For larger holes, you can use lath screen or lath metal, cement, hardware cloth, or metal sheeting. You can find these materials at your local hardware store.

In addition to sealing up holes and gaps it is very important to eliminate rodent food sources.

• • • keep food in containers with tight lids
    • keep food cleaned up
    • dispose of garbage on a regular basis
    • eliminate clutter
    • make sure outside grills and cooking areas clean
    • keep bird feeders away from house
    • keep lids tight on garbage cans
    • make sure compost bins as far away from the house as possible
    • keep livestock and animal feed in heavy duty containers with tight lids

If you already have mice or rats in and around your home, snap traps come in very handy.

A small amount of peanut butter (the size of a pea) on the bait pan of the snap trap works great! Position the bait end of the trap next to the wall so it forms a “T” with the wall. Mice and rats prefer to run next to walls for safety. They don’t like being out in the open. In attics, basements, and crawlspaces, set traps in any area where there is evidence of mice or rats. Generally mice will be trapped more quickly than rats. Rats are a bit more cautious than mice. Keep traps out for about a week after the last rodent is captured to make sure no more are hiding.

It is important to clean up mice or rat feces and urine safely! Their feces and urine carry many diseases.

Before starting clean up of the space, ventilate the space by opening the doors and windows for at least 30 minutes to allow fresh air to enter the area. Use cross-ventilation and leave the area during the airing-out period.

To clean up urine, feces, dead rodents, and nests:

• • • wear gloves (rubber, latex, or vinyl)
    • spray urine, feces, dead rodent, and/or nests with disinfectant or a mixture of bleach and water, let soak 5 minutes – the recommended concentration of bleach solution is 1 part bleach to 10 parts water
    • use paper towels to pick up waste and dispose in garbage
    • put nest or rodent in plastic bag and seal tightly, place full bag in a second bag and seal, throw the bag in a covered trash can
    • after rodent waste, rodents, and nests are removed, disinfect items that may have also been contaminated
    • mop floors and countertops with disinfectant or bleach solution
    • steam clean carpets
    • wash bedding and clothing with laundry detergent and hot water
    • after taking off gloves, thoroughly wash hands with soap and water

When cleaning up attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other storage areas use the same method as above.

If insulation or cardboard boxes have been contaminated they should be disinfected, bagged, and thrown away. If you want to save potentially contaminated materials from storage containers first move the containers outside and place in a well-ventilated area exposed to direct sunlight. Disinfect the outside of the storage container. Remove the contaminated materials while remaining upwind. Decontaminate materials that can be saved. Stuffed animals and clothing can be washed in detergent and hot water. Books, paper, and other non washable items can be left in a rodent free area exposed to outdoor sunlight for several hours, or indoors for 1 week before cleanup. After that time, the virus should no longer be infectious. Wear rubber, latex, vinyl, or nitrile gloves and wipe down items with a cloth moistened with disinfectant.

For heavy rodent infestation or you just don’t want to deal with these destructive disease causing critters, it is best to call a professional. Professionals have the proper protective equipment needed to handle the infestation and the experience to clean up the mess safely and properly.

The post IT’S NEARLY WINTER, AND RODENTS ARE LOOKING TO BE WARM AND COZY AS WELL – LIKE IN OUR HOMES! …. WHAT TO DO? appeared first on Rocky Mountain BPS.

Western Yellow Jackets are banded yellow (or orange) and black and are commonly mistaken for honey bees. However, Western Yellow Jackets have smooth bodies with vivid color, whereas honey bees have hairy bodies and their color isn’t as bright.

Yellow Jackets typically nest about 4 to 6 inches underground using existing hollows, such as a rodent burrow . The nests are built large, starting about the size of a golf ball in the spring and by the end of summer reaching the size of a basketball. They are made of wood fibers and Yellow Jacket saliva. They are enclosed in a hexagonal paper envelope with a small entrance tunnel at the bottom.  The nest is not visible and is unnoticeable unless excavated. Yellow Jacket colonies will defend themselves and sting when the nest is disturbed.

In the wild, Yellow Jackets will eat a variety of insects and fruits. However, because of human behavior, Yellow Jackets have become a dangerous pest. Humans concentrate their garbage and leave food out uncovered. Yellow Jackets will gravitate to these food sources as an alternative food supply. This puts them into close proximity to humans. Yellow Jackets are very persistent and aggressive over food. They are also very aggressive and protective of their colonies. Their stinging behavior is encountered at nesting sites, but sometimes scavenging Yellow Jackets will sting if someone tries to swat them away from a potential food source. When scavenging at picnics or other outdoor meals, Yellow Jackets will crawl into soda cans and can sting your lips or the inside of your mouth or throat. As a result, increased pest control efforts have occurred.

Reactions to wasp stings vary from only short-term, intense pain to substantial swelling and tenderness, some itching, or even to life-threatening allergic responses. If a Yellow Jacket stings, the recommended treatment is an antihistamine ointment and/or tablet to reduce the reaction. Those who are highly sensitive or allergic to stings should speak to a physician about alternatives such an Epipen. One concern is a condition that results from multiple-sting encounters. Red blood cells and other tissues in the body become damaged from the wasp venom, the tissue debris and other breakdown products are carried to the kidneys, to be eliminated from the body. Too much debris and waste products can cause blockages in the kidneys, resulting in renal insufficiency or renal failure. Patients with this condition require medical intervention, which can include dialysis.

The best way to prevent unpleasant encounters with Yellow Jackets is to avoid them. If you know where they are, try not to go near their nesting places. Try not to leave food around to attract them. Keep food either inside the house or covered if outside. Keep garbage can lids closed tight. Once wasps discover food, they will continue to hunt around that location long after the food has been removed.

If Yellow Jacket nests must be eliminated, it is easiest and safest to call for professional help.

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An allergic reation to insects that sting or bite, like bees, wasps, and mosquitoes cause pain, redness, itching and minor swelling in the area around the bite or sting. Occasionally the allergic reaction is severe causing anaphylaxis and even death.

An allergic reaction to insects that don’t sting or bite, like cockroaches or dust mites, is different. You may sneeze, cough, have a runny or stuffy nose, or itchy eyes, nose, mouth or throat. These symptoms can be confused with the common cold, but last for weeks or months at a time. If you have asthma, an allergic reaction could trigger asthma symptoms or an asthma attack.

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